I am an egoist

What is the difference between self-respect and ego? I have been wondering this ever since I found that I am an egotist. I never had a liking for my voice being cut, even if I was wrong. Worse, if someone corrected me in a brazen way, I would put up a sullen face and act as if he committed a mistake. It was the most-adhered way of keeping my sanctity intact and also smarting the so-deemed offender. In a way, I destroyed myself and also hurt the other.

I don’t say, I still don’t do it. But I at least try not to do it, and in the instances, I have been successful, I find the world so radically different. The problems then cease to exist and what comes out is happy co-existence for one and all. Ego isolates one by keeping an exalted view of oneself, and thus can never reach the solution. Self-respect on the other hand keeps one exalted in the midst of all by solving the problem. I fail to understand it, or more importantly, adhere to it when the situation demands. It happens in the heat of the moment, and it takes a gigantic effort then to put aside my self-righteous views. But it definitely gets better when I get it right. I need to puncture my ego at the start only, and hopefully one day I can make make my life even more beautiful.

My Egypt Trip - V

Having reached Cairo, we had another easily-attained sleep. Next morning, we were ready for the final leg of our journey. Neevin was her usual beautiful-self in a spic green dress.

The day seemed like the hottest of all the days we had spent in Egypt. The traffic was huge too. Since we had only half a day at our disposal, we had to drop the Citadel from our itinerary. As known now, it was another important location of history which we had to miss. Incidentally, the location has its relations to one of my favourite historical characters, Saladin.

Old Cairo:-

We went to the old Cairo first, famous for its ancient churches, synagogues and monuments. We had to walk through a relatively narrow street into the area. After about a 5-minute walk, we reached the famous Old Roman Fortress, now lying below the ground level. Built on top of it is the Hanging Church. I had not been to any church till then, so was quite expectant about the opportunity.

Hanging Church is the most famous church in Egypt, supposedly built around 4^th century AD. It was very beautiful from outside and quaintly eye-catching inside. I had the first view of altar, pews and the frescoes inside a church. It seemed they had intentionally kept many things in an old and worn state, probably to retain their archaic look.

Coming out, we found another church lying adjacent to it. As told by Neevin, it was the Greek Orthodox Church which she didn’t visit as she was a Coptic. The Christians in Egypt are called Coptics and are the most populous ones there. Interestingly, I had a chance to visit Greek Orthodox Church here in Cyprus recently, and found it to be a bit different with people kissing the pictures of Jesus as a ritual.

Anyway, we then went to a synagogue, Ben Ezra, the oldest in Egypt. It was another first for me to visit a Jewish worship place. The central part there was more expanded, and actually elevated, finally rising in a pulpit. I don’t know whether it was a particular feature of that synagogue, or common to all. The Jews in Egypt have become very few in number recently.

It didn’t take us much time to visit these places, but still we were left with only a few hours to visit the Cairo Museum, our last destination. Swerving through the Cairo traffic, we reached the site, the place which was the home to the mummies of the great pharaohs of the past.

Cairo Museum:-

It was indeed crowded there, the reason of which really doesn’t need any telling. While going through the security check, one guard incidentally told us we had got the best guide in Egypt to escort us. No further words on his indulging remarks:). Cameras were not allowed inside the museum, so we had to leave them at the counter. But before that, we took a good number of snaps in the lush green and cool fountain-seeped environs outside.

Egyptian Museum is a two-levelled building (ground floor and first floor) containing antiquities of great interest. Entering the museum, we could find so many things-statues, paintings, rocks etc in front of us. It was a sea of ancient world wonders before us. But the most important things were on the first floor.

Yes, the mummies’ room! The cost of entry into the rooms was the highest of those of all the other places; but many people go to see those reclining centuries-old corpses only, so it was justified. The first room was a medium-sized one, surprisingly (I had visualized it to be a big hall containing the royal mummies in different chambers, he he :) ) Great lesson: Everything is a downer if you expect too much of it. Nevertheless, the mummies are there to see right from the door. Lay in a series, the mummified bodies are kept in glass chambers with detailed labels on them. The first or may be, second of those (if I remember correctly) was that of Queen Hatshepsut, the Great Royal Queen. She had one of her teeth protruding out. The reason I looked at her quite attentively was that our guide, Youssef, at Luxor, had said she was very beautiful. 3000 years later, I couldn’t make it out from her face, but her hair was indeed free-flowing. That was the case with most of the other mummies: nails were spotless, hair very much grown, some even luxuriant, cheeks and heads prominent. No doubt, some of them were the products of the recent chemical works done on them. I just laughed and wondered inside me about the sheer belief and science of those Egyptians. The world would have been a better and more developed place if they would have been still surviving! Ramses-II’s mummy too was there. He looked very thin, but age does take its toll! The second room was very much similar to the first one and contained mummies of other royal persons. I could not spend much time on the lesser known ones’, because we had to head off to another marvel of modern world-the treasures of Tutankhamen.

The treasures occupied a large area along almost two sides of the first floor. Practically all the materials related to his life-chariots, gloves, jewellery, gameboard, the famous throne and mask were on display. He was buried within a series of caskets, all made of pure gold. Such ostentatious wealth! It simply spellbound me. Tutankhamen, despite being a famous pharaoh, was no match in clout to the bigger kings, such as Ramses-II, Akhenaten, Hatshepsut etc. Imagine Ramses-II’s treasure that would have been buried with him. In my stupefaction, I did ask Neevin a stupid question about the treasure ever being targeted at by the gutsy thieves, ala those in Hollywood Movies. I wouldn’t mind even a minuscule share of the booty!

Last, we saw a replica of the Rosetta Stone. The Rosetta Stone is the antiquity which helped decipher the ancient Egyptian languages. It contained three sections with a text written in three different languages-Classical Greek, Hieroglyphics and Demotics. The original piece now rests in Museum of London. It was the only item there which was not authentic.

Seeing only the above things took us about 2 hours and that was what we could afford. Neevin did show us the other things but I don’t remember even an iota about them. But may be, those are for next trip, if it at all happens. We bid adieu to Neevin, wishing Good Luck and exchanging our FaceBook account details. But before that, I asked her whether she understood whatever we talked in Hindi. She nonchalantly replied, ‘thoda thoda’, ala Sue in RDB :) Hope we didn’t say any of those usual commonly-uttered flattering words in her presence.

Mr. Michael escorted us to the airport and we seemed to have befriended him even more by the time we reached there. Thankfully there wasn’t much rush at the airport that time around, and we easily passed through the Security and Other Checks. The Egypt Air flight was on time, and the return journey started in the same way of me falling into ponderous thoughts as in the incoming one. This time though, the thoughts were more educated and refined.

I had never thought Egypt would be such a great place. My preconceived notions, most of them forced and based on fatuous opinions, were torn asunder. A few days are hardly a measure of time to build an opinion, but sufficient enough to quash the ludicrous ones. I saw disporting smile on a beautiful face, dreams in the eyes of a young Muslim girl, optimism of a boy, affability of a senior genial guy and the ever-moving promising buzz of life that was Egypt. Muslims were not all bearded, belligerent and inhuman; Egypt was not another world; and above all, life was not at all different. And do you know, that is true of all the places and people in the world.

My heart was more cheerful; mind learned and ideas emboldened; and all slowly nestled on the perch of my eyes which gradually closed themselves to acknowledge the sleep of a more lettered kind.

My Egypt Trip -IV

We slept for a long time after many days (phew, it was only two days of exertion but you feel the effect if you are a habitual long-sleeper :) ) Saurabh overslept, probably to make the tour-representative, Mr Malak, who was waiting in the lobby, suffer. Anyway, we were ready for the tour not very late, after having another heavy breakfast.

This time our tour guide was Youssef Ibrahim, surprisingly a male this time. We had thought that the company would be providing female guides only to us; to recompense for the poor accommodation provided till then. But it was better actually, because apart from being more knowledgeable, he was more homely. Needless to say about his ebullition about Indian movies (apparent now as a gesture to become friendlier), his talks were more detailed and honest. He was a forty-something guy with a distinct aura around him. He quickly endeared us by his knowledge and glibness. I realized then it might be the best day as far as sight seeing was concerned. We went to the ‘Valley of the Kings’ first.

The Valley of the Kings:-

I had heard only a little about the Valley of the Kings, save it being a historical place related to the kings. When Youssef explained the significance of the place while on our way to the Valley, I was simply marveled by it. It is good sometimes not to have read the history before.

“As told before, the pharaohs of the Earlier Dynasties were buried in tombs inside the Pyramids. But as happens with wealth, it was never safe from its looters. Over a period of time, the buried treasure was stolen away by thieves. From the Thirteenth Dynasty onwards, the kings decided to build their tombs in these hills to keep them safer from the ever-prowling robbers. So, these hills became a burial and resting place for the great pharaohs. Hence, the name ‘Valley of the Kings’.”

It is so obvious, isn’t it? But at that point of time, it was quite conjuring for me.

As soon as we entered the big lobby, we saw a mini structure depicting the location of the tombs inside the Valley. There was a TV show going on in one corner, detailing the excavation of Tutankhamen’s tomb in 1922.

We strolled out to a big open area following the lobby. There were small trams to carry the visitors to the site. Ah! a nice arrangement, one can say. Having reached there, our guide bought us the ticket but we were allowed to visit only three tombs. Visiting any other tomb would have incurred an extra cost. But as people had said, three tombs usually proved to be enough to give an idea about the creepy dungeons.

While walking to the various tombs, one can’t help but notice the tomb of Tutankhamen, the most famous king of Egypt, lying on the right side of the pathway. There was a sizable crowd outside it. Youssef then told, much to my dejection, that visit to that tomb would cost even greater additional amount which according to him was not worth it. Alas! I had to leave King Tut for my next trip. Later on I came to know that the tomb also housed his mummy. I had missed a great thing of historical significance :(

We went to Tuthmoshis III‘s tomb first. There was a big queue in an ascent up wooden steps. As told by our guide, this tomb was the most unusual one, with a pit after the entrance, and then a steep descent down into the tomb. The pit was probably dug as a deterrent to tomb robbers. Two small chambers, decorated with stars and a larger vestibule are in front of the sarcophagus chamber, which is uniquely rounded and decorated with only red and black.

We went to the tombs of Ramses-I and Ramses-IV then. I don’t remember much about them, except that they were shorter than the earlier one but contained similar paintings and engravings on the walls. I call them just paintings, unfortunately owing to my ignorance about them, but just consider their significance for the students who could study them in real. As usual with the other places visited till then, I was just excited to be there.

The Hatshepsut Temple:-

After coming from the Valley of the Kings, we went to the Hatshepsut Temple. It looked really magnificent from a distance. It was very hot, but we decided to take a walk than a tram this time to behold its beauty from a perspective as we sauntered closer to it.

“Hatshepsut was the daughter of Tuthmoshis I. She married Tuthmoshis II- her half-brother and assumed the title of Great Royal Wife. After Tuthmoshis II died, she became the Queen. But Tuthmoshis II had a son, Tuthmoshis –III (whose tomb we visited earlier) from another wife, but he was only a child at the time of his death and wasn’t accorded the throne. But he came back later to take the reign from his step-mother and in revenge, practically destroyed every single remnant of her. The Queen Hatshepsut remains though the longest-serving and one of the most powerful female pharaohs of the Egyptian history.”

History like this often tells the world hasn’t changed much since its inception. Deceit, treachery, lust for power etc was as widespread in the earlier world too. Yeah, the concept of marriage within a family, to say incest in a cruder form, is gone now.

The Temple is a three-tiered one with the first tier almost destroyed. There are sphinxes, statues, vestibules etc still remaining, despite the vandalism wrought upon the temples by his step-son.

The Valley of the Queens:-

The Valley of the Queens lies very adjacent to the Temple. There were not many tourists outside its entrance, which summed up the importance of the place. In fact, one of Saurabh’s colleagues had termed it ‘Useless’ in a very bland manner. But nothing is useless, if there is history attached to it.

As the name suggests, this necropolis was used to bury the Queens. But some of the royal children who had died young too have been engraved here. We went to the tombs of Queen Titi, and Amenhikhopeshef and Prince Kha Em Wast, sons of Ramses –III.

The Colossi of Memnon:-

Amenhotep III , a king of 18^th Dynasty, built a mortuary temple in Thebes (now Luxor) that was guarded by two gigantic statues on the outer gates. All that remains now are those two statues which themselves have been destroyed by earthquakes and natural elements over the years. The statues are still impressive, and we took some snaps against the backdrop of their base.

It was unusually hot that day-even though it was only mid-March. I wonder what life is like in Egypt during the sultry months of the summer. Anyway, it only acted as an aggrandizer for the big hunger that had set in.

Youssef took us to a very good restaurant, probably the best till then. We also had the best lunch. It is another matter that every another lunch seemed the best for us J But this also cost the least. The reason: we paid ourselves. Youssef certainly didn’t want to profit himself there.

A tour-representative was waiting for us outside the restaurant. He wanted us to buy the ticket for Light and Sound Show at Karnak Temple in the evening. We did buy in the end, but before that, we let out every word of bad experience we had had with them. We appreciated the praiseworthy things too. He seemed to be convinced, at least apparently, but we were finally relieved to have done the talking.

The Karnak Temple:-

Our first post-lunch destination was Karnak Temple. It lies very much at the top in the pecking order of significance in Egyptian history.

“In ancient Egypt, the power of the god Amun gradually increased over a period of time, and after the short persecution led by Akhenaten (the only monotheist pharaoh known till date), it rose to its apex. The temple is actually dedicated to three Gods, Amun, Mut and Montu. Each subsequent king added something (pylon, obelisk etc) of his own and the temple then sprawled out to become the largest temple complex ever built by man.”

There is so much about Karnak Temple that it is impossible and in fact, unjustified to write a summary on it. Every aspect of it has a history of details attached to it; none more so than that about the pharaoh, Ramses-II:-

"Ramses-II’s statues are very much prominent in the main open courtyard of the temple. He was the king of 19^th dynasty and a very powerful and certainly, a long-lasting one. He lived for 99 years and had about 110 children in total. In fact, he married some of his own daughters. Going by his family count, he probably didn’t have time for anything else. But actually he was an equally capable warrior, and extended his kingdom as far as the southern region of Nubia. The temples of Abu Simbel bear a testimony to his grandeur."

Ramses II had an obvious impact on the development of the Temple. But the most impressive part of the Temple is the Hypostyle Hall which contains the gigantic Colonnades-big rounded columns rising magnificently in the sky. They are placed very close to each other and hence, present a great overseeing look-up to the whole area.

There is also a very interesting thing nearby. A pedestal containing a scorpion statue lies in front of the sacred pond. At first, we were surprised to see people gathered around it. Then, we realized they were actually moving around it. Scorpion being the symbol of good-luck, is propitiated like this to bring good omen to the people. Saurabh and I too encircled around it but I forgot to wish anything. Huh!

The Luxor Temple:-

The Luxor Temple is not very far away from the Karnak temple. In fact, in earlier times, both were connected by a 3-km long avenue of sphinxes. The remarkable similarity between them is also not unnoticeable. It too contains big colonnades, courtyards, statues and vestibules.

The biggest attraction is the entrance though, where two big obelisks raised by Ramses-II present a grand view of the facade. The western obelisk is missing now; it was given to the French government in the 1830s by the then Egyptian ruler, Md. Ali (probably) as some sort of indemnity for loan-waiver.

Post Luxor temple visit, our tour for the day had come to an end. As anticipated earlier, it was the best sight-seeing day for me. Youssef had lived up to its impression of being a very articulate and affable guy. Good for him that as soon as he left us, he had another set of tourists, French probably, to guide.

In the evening, as per the plan, we had to go to the Light and Sound Show at 8 pm. We went to the hotel to take our luggage, and also bought the Khartoosh pendants from a nearby shop.

The Light and Sound Show:-

The show brought us back to the Karnak Temple. In the illuminated night in dark, it did look a bit different and I dare say, spooky. We were made to stand outside the entrance, and as the show started, were guided inside it with a commentary aided with light-effects explaining the history. We again revisited the different parts, and that time, understood their significance better. Finally, we were led to a big seating area across the sacred pond. The whole Egyptian history related to Thebes and Karnak was then narrated before us.That was the most riveting part for me.

Ramses, Hatshepsut, Tutankhamen, Akhenaten, just to name a few, were mere persons like us. But how different? In thinking, behaviour, achievements …. ? Probably everything, but again humans playing their part in this world. Suddenly the fleeting nature of life and earth started appearing in more certain terms than ever. ‘But this is life’, I had to answer myself at the end of the magnificent show.

We then headed off to the Luxor Airport to catch the flight back to Cairo. The next day was going to be our last day of the journey. We had definitely got exhausted in three days only, but somewhere there was an intrinsic feeling of this amazing trip to never get over. I did feel saddened a bit, but ‘this is life’, I again had to say.

My Egypt Trip - III

We landed at the Aswan airport around 01:00 am the next day, Saturday, 14^th March. I had tried to catch as much sleep as possible during the flight journey, but I still felt very drowsy after landing. This time, a boy, Mahmud, was waiting for us. As usual with our Tour Company people, he too was very involved and active. During our ride back to the hotel, he asked us to be ready by 4 o’ clock in the morning. ….WTF? ….That was our unsaid reaction to this least expected plan. First, you booked our flight so late and then you are asking us to be ready by the time only roosters wake up. I was literally fuming for the kind of callousness shown by the Travel Company. But what to say to this boy?

With pent-up anger, we reached the hotel which was at least better than the one in Cairo. We had only about 2-3 hours to pass, but most of that time went in joking about our current situation. Anyway, I slept for an hour; but we were fully ready by 04:00 am. This time, our guide was Fatimah, a typical Arabic Muslim girl, with scarf on her head. Also, the van was bigger this time, which actually helped us later in sprawling and managing some much-needed sleep. We owed something to that boy Mahmud, later nicknamed Half-Ticket by Saurabh, for this foresight or consideration.

Ah! I forgot to tell you where we were going in those wee hours. Our destination was Abu Simbel, the last minute addition to our itinerary owing to its eye-catching photographs we had seen earlier on the Internet. It lay about 290 km south of Aswan, but the traveling buses or vans needed to be escorted by a security convoy which only left at 04:15 or 04:30 am for the earlier part of the day. That explained some of that early morning exercise. I did feel sheepish for my enraged soul earlier :)

We joined the security convoy on time and off we were for the amazing temples on a desert safari. Fatimah tried to explain a few historical things, but I was too dopey to heed or hark anything, and invariably crawled off to the last seat to gather some sleep. I woke up a couple of hours later and gropingly put on my glasses. What I saw was hitherto inexperienced in my life: vast stretches of sand on either side with no modicum of life to be seen anywhere, and our van moving along with the caravan on an endless journey. My mind moved on to those similar scenes in the movie “Resident Evil: The Last Extinction”. Wow – I had to say.

Fatimah wasn’t very amused with our sleeping for those many hours. She wanted or needed to talk about history. Since Saurabh was in the front, he did most of the talking with her. There was some wrong information given to her by Mahmud about our itinerary back in Aswan, but it was sorted out with us having to skip some places, like Aswan High Dam, due to the cramped schedule.

Abu Simbel:-

Abu Simbel remains one of the most astonishing feats of engineering marvel. There are two temples there, the bigger one of Ramses-II and the smaller one of his most beloved wife-Nefertari. After the construction of Aswan High Dam, the temples were slowly getting immersed in the rising water of Lake Nasser. With the danger then clearly in sight, UNESCO with concerned people from all over the world, worked to move the temples completely to a relatively higher and safer position. With engineers and workers working round the clock, this movement was completed in a record 5 years time in 1972. Since then, the place has got added popularity.

We reached there around 09:00 am and we, by then, were relatively refreshed. There were lots of tourists too, all coming in the caravan escorted by the two security convoys. So, it was a bit of a rush to enter the two temples. But before that, Fatimah briefed us about the history of the temples from a booklet containing their pictures. Guides were not allowed inside the temples, nor was any photographing. As usual, the history was riveting. This man, Ramses-II was all powerful and omnipotent, as you could see he was everywhere we went. His full story, I will narrate in my writing detailing our Luxor sojourn.

We first went inside the bigger temple which is dedicated to Ramses-II. On the façade, four big statues of his, one slightly deformed by an earthquake, welcome you awe-inspiringly. Inside it, there are columns, and engravings on the walls. At the foremost place in the passage is the sanctuary, considered the most sacred place. There, on a black wall, are rock-cut sculptures of four seated figures: Ra-Horakhty, the deified king Ramses-II, Amun-Ra and Ptah. On a particular day in each of the two halves of the year, sunlight falls on these statues, barring that of Ptah, the God of Dark and Underworld, from a crevice located on the right upper part of the room.

The smaller temple of Nefertari is almost a replica of the former; the only difference being that it is dedicated to the female folks: Nefertari and goddess Hathor. The importance of the queen, Nefertari can be gauged by the fact that this is the only temple in the Egyptian art where the statue of a queen is higher than the knees of her husband. Ramses-II did attach a lot of importance to her and as he did to himself, he accorded a divine status to her.

Despite the magnificence of the temples and the abutting Lake Nasser, I didn’t feel that excited after seeing them. May be I had got too expectant after reading about them on the Internet, or the still-accompanying drowsiness had acted as a dampener. Interestingly, Saurabh too shared the same feelings. But we were definitely delighted to visit a great location of history.

After coming from the temples, we had to search for our guide, as she had moved to a relatively isolated place to bird-watch from her binoculars. Here was a girl completely different to our earlier guide. Grown-up in traditional way but very educated and carrying lots of dreams, she was indeed a product of modern Egypt. It was interesting to meet different people.

We returned to our van to go back to Aswan. After having breakfast which we had got packed from the hotel, on the van, I could afford another round of sleep there in. Philae Temple was where we stopped next.

Philae Temple:-

Again due to the submersion caused by rising water, Philae Temple was moved in toto from its earlier location of Philae Island to a relatively higher Agilika Island, located about 550 metres away. But the temple is famously named on its earlier location only. We had to go through a ferry to the temple, and we could see its earlier site, half submerged in water.

The temple is dedicated to the Goddess, Isis. She was the wife of Osiris and mother of God Horus. In the myth, Osiris was murdered by his brother, the wicked God Seth. Seth scattered Osiris pieces in various places. Isis tirelessly searched for Osiris' body parts and then using her Goddess powers, joined the pieces together and brought Osiris back to life. Following Osiris' resurrection, Isis and Osiris conceived Horus. Osiris then adopted the role of ‘God of the under world and judge of the dead’. At the end of the tale, Horus grew up to avenge his father’s death by defeating Seth in combat. Philae Temple is also the legendary burial place of Osiris.

What surprised us most there were the stark and vivid engravings on the walls. They were very intense and depicting. Although, we could not get everything of those because of our lack of knowledge of the exact history, we could roughly make out the happenings which would have taken place. Greco-Roman and the subsequent Christian history too was very evident from the different sculptures and constructions.

While Fatimah was explaining us the engraved writings, a group of boys speaking in Arabic dispersed around us. One of them clearly didn’t say something pleasant to her, as was evident from the subsequent hush of disapproval from her face. We could understand that; young ruffians are everywhere. A few moments later, one of them approached her and spoke in Arabic to ask us for our approval to be photographed with them. Ah! Here we were, always taking photographs of foreigners with us back in India, and then there, we were being photographed! They were glad to take some snaps and I too took one of them. Later Fatimah told we looked like film-stars to them. I don’t know about myself, may be Saurabh looked like one :) Meanwhile, they continued to have their bouts of photographing with other groups of tourists. I had told you before; Egypt is very much like India.

Coming back from the place on the same ferry, we headed off to ‘The Unfinished Obelisk’ site.

The Unfinished Obelisk:-

The site is located right on the side of a main road. In earlier times, it was a quarry, where Egyptians carved out granite stones in a single piece, called obelisk. These obelisks were the show of grandeur of the pharaohs, and each of them raised many to exhibit his power. There is an unfinished obelisk lying in the middle and that has become a matter of study and visit for the current people. Some say, it was left like that as the people digging it found it to be weak enough to be raised as an obelisk. Hmmm…anyway the real significance of obelisks was known to us in Karnak Temple in Luxor where we saw the actual erected ones.

Felucca Ride:-

Having had enough of historical sites, we needed to have some recreating moments. What better than a boat ride on the Nile River? It isn’t exactly a boat; it is famously called felucca in Egypt. Half-Ticket had arranged for us a small felucca for our sailing in the river. It felt really great to be amongst the water of Nile River. We sailed for about an hour around Elephantine Island, seeing the nearby scenery. There were many people relaxing in the shade of the feluccas. I wished, someday I too could afford that with time and money.

We hadn’t had lunch till then, and obviously felt very hungry. Our guide accompanied us to a very good restaurant where we were served delicious chicken tomato curry (the exact name I have forgotten). Needless to say, we gorged and guzzled everything.

We had to go to the railway station then to move to our next destination, Luxor. Fatimah meanwhile left us. I don’t know why but the words “God Bless You”, generally reserved for older people to utter, came out of my mouth when she was parting. Probably because of the sheer amount of respect I had developed for her by then.

Mahmud took us to our seats in the train and bade good-bye. We were apprehensive about the seating train compartment not being comfortable, but it was actually very cozy. Those bogies were especially for the tourists, it seemed, and soon we could find many others joining us. Two Chinese girls (could have been Japanese, Korean etc but I hope you got the drift) sat in front of us, and we kept talking about them under the guard of our Hindi. Typical boys naa, on a trip! Soon though, I was in the arms of sleep and Saurabh with a meal in front of his seat.

Three hours later, we reached the Luxor station where Mr. Malak was waiting for us. He looked a very reserved guy, and our talk remained very minimal during our ride to the hotel. As usual with the hotels provided to us, this again was a very sub-standard one. But our frustration grew into extreme wrath on seeing the room. It was pathetic; we were more annoyed on being taken for a ride like that. We decided to bring this up the very next day in no uncertain terms. Despite having a memorable time in the day, the end was as bad as was the start. Suddenly Luxor didn’t seem enjoyable, but we were so wrong.